SEASON: Jumping into Spring
This is a truly lovely season in Queensland, where you can feel the warmth in air again, flowers are popping up everywhere.... with lots of breeders patiently waiting for the birth of their Spring crias.
Here are some tips to help you through the coming season.
SHEARING: If you haven't already booked your shearer, get in and do it now - to avoid having too much fleece on your alpacas as the hotter weather comes. If you are a new breeder and have not done this before, contact some local breeders and ask to visit on their shearing day so that you know how it will work at your farm. Be prepared and have your fleece and testing bags named and ready for use in alphabetical order for easy of use on the day. If the weather suits, put a hose over your alpacas a week before shearing to knock the dirt and dust out of them. On the day, run grooming tools over them before they get shorn to knock of the vegetable matter out. Have lots of helpers so that you can skirt the fleece as it comes off the animal; doing biannual shots (ie, drench, selenium, vaccine, vitamin d) and toenail clipping whilst they are restrained. If your shearer is qualified, have teeth checked (including fighting teeth on males) and ground if necessary.
SHELTER: The weather at this time of year can be a bit unpredictable.... one minute cool and then hot, but we all know the heat is coming - so it is time to prepare. Make sure that your alpacas have shade to get under whether they are fleeced or not, to get out of the sun.
WATER: Have water available at all times in a shaded spot, under a tree or shelter to keep it cool. If the water is out in the sun it can heat up and they won't drink it if hot.... leading to dehydration and worse.
WORMS: This is a good time to drench, ahead of the worm activity heating up with the weather. Some breeders drench routinely with the seasons. Some test and then drench as required. Regardless of what you plan to do with drenching, a way to keep the worm burden down is by cleaning up poo piles every 4-5days, removing from the paddock completely and putting in a location where there can be no runoff back to the paddock with rain. Paddock rotation is also another way to keep the worm burden down, allowing your paddocks to rest for 3-4mths in between uses. Before you move your alpacas to a new paddock, test and/or drench and move them two days after drenching - clean up the poo from the previous paddock straight away and leaving the paddock to rest for 3-4mths.
PREGNANT FEMALES: This is a time when lots of breeders plan to have births as the weather is mild and suited to the start of new life. When your female is 2mths off due date, bring her into a maternity paddock where you can see her readily. Increase the feed for these females with good quality hay on offer 24/7 and chaff mix with adequate mineral supplementation. Bring your cria kits out and have them ready - for taking temperatures, weighing, coats and hot water bottles to warm cold crias, bottles and milk replacers on standby if things go wrong. A great book to help you care for your pregnant female and cria is the ABC of Cria Care book by Caroline Jinx. Review this book and have it on hand if things go wrong.
SNAKES: As the weather warms, so will the snake activity. In the past four years we have experienced two cases of snake bite with around 100 alpacas on farm. It is rare, but does happen. If you find your alpaca foaming at the mouth, drooling and lethargic - check temperature and if low, the probability that poisoning has occurred is very strong... either from weeds or snake bite. In any case you need to get vet assistance - however, if it is indeed a snake bite, we have found the anti-venin useless, infact it resulted in the death of an alpaca by anaphylactic shock. We have found that 2 x 5ml shots of Vitamin C, one in each side of base of neck immediately, containing animal in a warm pen, and giving 1 x shot of 5ml Vitamin C per hour thereafter until animal is eating and drinking again with electrolytes in water and B Complex on chaff mix. Please note - high doses of vitamin c can cause kidney damage, however snake bite venin cause death.... so I know what I would choose to do!
WEEDS: This time of year weeds pop up due to recent rains following a season of low winter pastures. Be vigilant, check your paddocks regularly. Walk a paddock before you let your animals into it for the first time - pulling out any weeds that have grown. When moving alpacas to a new paddock - give them a chaff mix sup feed before letting them out so that they don't gorge themselves on the new grass and only allow them to graze for 2hrs on the first day, then 1/2 day the next and so on.
1 Sep 10
SHARPS DISPOSAL
It is a requirement for breeders to contain used needles/syringes in an approved sharps container and dispose of that container when full to a licensed collection facility.
WHERE DO I GET SHARPS CONTAINERS FROM:
- Healthy Horse, William Street, Rockhampton, Ph: 4927 6260
COST OF SHARPS BINS:
- 5 to 10 litre sizes, various styles: $14.95-$22 per container
DISPOSAL (SELF):
- YEPPOON: Community Health Centre at Yeppoon Hospital, Hoskins Drive.
- ROCKHAMPTON: Community Health Centre, 82-86 Bolsover St.
- You need to go into the office and ask staff to open up the bin located outside for you to put the sharps container in.
DISPOSAL (COLLECTION):
- JJ Richards: Lisa, 1800 242 527
- Will open an account for you, when you call they will collect for a fee of $20 for the site visit and $5.20per kg of waste. They will send you an account for this service at the end of the month the waste is collected.
1 Jun 10
QUEENSLAND ALPACA OF THE YEAR AWARD - How can you win this award?
2009 Qld Alpacas of the Year: Huacaya - Sunline Galaxy
The criteria for both Suri and Huacaya Queensland Alpaca of the Year is as follows:
Alpaca must have a Qld Stud Prefix
Alpaca must be owned by registered Qld Breeder
The scoring count is only from the best four (4) show Results for each animal at Qld Region endorsed show (currently Toowoomba, Nanango, Gympie, Sunshine Coast and Brisbane Royal)
The scoring is as follows:
Age Classes (in both Colourbration & Standard Shows)
- First place = 3 points
- 2nd place = 2 points
- 3rd place = 1 point
In the event of a large class, then a bonus point is given to all place getters that beat 5 or more animals... ie, 4th place = 1 point (only if they beat 5 others).
Age - Section: Standard Shows
- Champion = 3 points
- Reserve = 2 points
Colour Section: Colourbration Shows
>Supreme = 4 points
Overall Show Winner: Standard Shows
> Supreme Champion = 5 points
So all you need to do to take part in the opportunity of winning either of these Awards is to show your best alpacas at all of the above shows
and you are in the running!
2009 Qld Alpacas of the Year: Huacaya - Suri: Paltarra Khamsin
1 Jun 10
SEASON: Getting through Winter
Winter alpaca care in Central Queensland is generally not too much of a concern. However here are some tips to help you meet some of the challenges that this season may bring.
KEEPING WARM
- Your alpacas should have been shorn in the spring so they should have plenty of fleece regrowth to insulate them from the coming colder weather. If you haven't shorn your alpacas by now, then don't.... they will have to wait now until August when shearing commences again this year in Central Queensland.
- This is a time of year that we in Queensland are expecting cria drops as it is a great time for births with our milder weather. Make sure that you have plenty of cria coats (sizes: premie to large) for cria's first few nights, or those cold/wet days/nights too.
- It is also a good idea to have tui and adult cria coats in your kit, just in case you have a sick alpaca during the winter season so that you can coat them to help keep them warm whilst they recover.
FEED
- This is a time of year that we generally don't have much feed on the ground.
- Adult alpacas keep themselves warm in winter time by eating fibre such as hay. As nutrition is low from pastures coming into winter, feeding them good quality supplementary feeds and hay consistently is important. You must remember that if you don't supplement alpacas with a ration during this time of year the animals will be missing nutrients vital for producing good fibre, skin, cria and overall health. Lactating Hembras especially need nutrients replaced.
- Cria are unable to produce the same warmth from feeding on hay and so it is a very good idea to supply all alpaca with chaff mix even if they are still suckling.
- Provide alpacas with plenty of feed so that they have the needed fuel to keep their bodies warm, which means increasing feed as pastures wain. Some of our alpacas may be a little chubby, but winter is not the time to restrict their food intake.
- On cold days, add warmed water to chaff mix to help warm them from the inside out!
- Make sure you keep vitamin/mineral intact up, by adding things to chaff mix like: mineral powder or alpaca pellets / DCP / Kelp / vitamins C and B Complex.
- Provide lucerne hay during cold times, which helps to fuel them.
- Hays like barley/oaten/wheaten become easier to obtain at this time of year, but make sure that you buy prime hays.... to ensure that they are weed free.
- Place a roof over feeders in open fields so that weather does not destroy hay in paddock. Remember that mouldy hay can kill horses, so alpacas don't have much of a chance when subject to this.
- If wind blows rain into your paddock hay feeders, throw it out - it is not worth the risk.
WATER
- Alpacas still need water in the colder months. No animal can produce the warmth they need without a fresh and constant supply of water. Lack of this supply can lead to Hypothermia and other health problems due to a weakened immune system.
- Shedded or vulnerable alpaca can use a bucket in a milk crate filled with water - so that they don't have to walk out in the rain to get water from the normal source. The crate will stop crias from getting heads caught in handles and to stop them from tipping it over too.
- Make sure you keep waterers clean during winter too, scrub weekly with brush and bleach.
SHELTER
- Alpacas are livestock and do not need too much shelter, apart from some trees/hedges, etc. Sunlight and excercise are also important for winter health. Don't allow them to sit around in the barn/shed each and every day as it is not natural to them and they will get bored and immune system can suffer as a result. If you can - take their hay/feed away from shelters so that they have to exercise a little.
- More vulnerable alpacas may need extra care like a shed to come into when wet/windy.... the older breeder / young crias / breeding females near term.
- Keep an eye on your alpacas after heavy winter rains to make sure that they are not shivering with cold. Their fleece should insulate them.... so if shivering, it could mean that their immune system has been lowered and they have become susceptible to illness.
INTRODUCING NEW ALPACAS TO FARM
> This is the best time of year to introduce new alpacas to your property, as it gives them time to adjust to new parasites and bacteria in soils. In winter both these things are low to non-existant, so they have time to slowly adjust over the months ahead.
VITAMIN ADE
> In Central Queensland we generally have cool, but sunny winter months and overcast/wet summers. However, if you experience extended cloudy weather during winter - then you will need to give all alpacas ADE booster shots.
DRENCHING
> This is a good time of year to drench for tapeworm and lice/mites, as all other worms are generally hard to pick up in winter months.
EXTRA CARE
- Make sure you have plenty of old towels on hand for hand drying alpacas that are really cold from the wet.
- Have a hair dryer available to assist in drying young alpaca that are suffering from excessive cold.
- Have shedding available for quarantining sick or vulnerable alpaca, that will keep them out of the rain/wind.
- Make sure you have a well stocked medical kit for this time of year. See "Kit-General Care" and "Kit-General Care Products" on this website under "Marketplace", "Health Care"... these are the things you will need on hand. Also handy to have vitamin c and vitamin b complex powder to put in sick alpaca chaff mix.
1 May 10
SHOW PREPARATIONS: You & Your Alpaca!
It is that time of year when we start to prepare ourselves and our alpacas for the show season.
Here are some tips to help you along the way......
SHOW ENTRIES
- Lock show dates you intend to visit or enter animals into your diary. See Australian Alpaca Association (AAA) Queensland Region Website for dates/locations/entry forms/closing dates, link: qld. alpaca. asn. au (under Calendar of Events).
- Download necessary documents for shows you intend to enter animals/fleece/artwork/etc, read the conditions of entry thoroughly first; complete entry documents and send well ahead of the closing dates. You must include with each entry: Entry Form, Alpaca Herd Health Status Form, a copy of each animals pedigree you are showing (back/front), payment.
- Keep a complete copy of all your entry documentation and take with you to that show, just in case a document is missing from records on the day.
- Book your accommodation well in advance.
PREPARING ALPACAS FOR SHOW
- Halter training should be completed at least a month before each show. Then it is just a weekly practice session for the alpacas ahead of the show.
- To learn how to halter train your alpacas, visit breeders farms and get involved in their training programs or purchase "Alpaca Training and Handling DVD" by Marty McGee $110 per copy from this website (includes postage), see further information from link: www. ppalpacas. com. au/market. php?id=262.
- Physical check of your show team one month ahead of showing, ie males have two testicles, all animals have correct ear tag number (it is easy to put the wrong tag in ear when doing a few or forget to do it altogether), fleece length is at least 50mm for huacaya and 75mm for suris.
- Make sure that you know how to properly fit a halter (see info "Tips-Correctly Fitting a Halter" on this page, dated 01/03/10).
- Get your alpaca use to walking through gates, around people, on concrete/grass/gravel.
- Practice walking your alpaca around an imagined show ring; stopping the alpaca to position in front of judge, turning side on (each side); open mouth to show teeth; hold alpaca from the font and have someone physically inspect the animals teeth, ears, eyes, genitalia and fleece.... as the judge will so that they get used to the situation and handling.
- Make sure you drench your alpacas 4-6days before a show and if you are in a "tick zone" you will need to use a product like Cydectin or Ivomectin.
HANDLER NEEDS FOR A SHOW
- Long white lab coat which can be obtained from safety supply shops. You will probably need to order these in, so do early. Here in Rockhampton you can obtain them from Protector Alsafe, phone 07 4922 3608.
- Long black trousers, covered clean boots.
- You cannot display any farm advertising material on your lab coat or have any showing under your coat.
WHAT TO TAKE TO SHOW
- Feed (hay/chaff mix/pellets/etc). Make sure you check conditions of entry for each show, some shows don't allow you to bring feed - instead you order from the on-site supply store with your entry.
- Water. We take our own water for the animals, a change in water can upset their stomachs and you don't need that when showing!
- Feed/water dishes. The ones that hang on the pen panels are best as they cannot be knocked over. Can be obtained from feed stores generally.
- Bedding straw/wood shavings for pen-this product provides cushioning for alpacas to sit on and also absorbs urine. Again check through show forms to make sure you can bring your own or order from supply shop on show site. Can be obtained from feed stores.
- Matting. This is optional. We use woodshavings to absorb urine in pen, covered with rubber mesh matting (purchased from Bunnings, etc). This keeps the alpacas fleece cleaner.
- Grooming tools. Suri/Huacaya grooming tools, combs, spray bottle of water, fleece trimming scissors (for removing daggy bits, etc). For more information, see items on this website under "Market Place", "Equipment".
- Cleaning tools. Dust pan/brush, small broom, old feed bag to store fecal matter that you clean up.
- Halter/lead sets for the number of animals you are showing. Use the ones that the animal is use to, not a bright shiny new one on the day!
- Medical Kit. Vitamins, ulcer medication, bandages, drench bottles, electrolytes, needles/syringes, thermometer, wound ointment, gloves, swabs, etc. We take electrolytes to put in water the first night we arrive and also Vitamin B Complex powder to put in feed. These things help to rebalance and calm the alpaca after the long trip and also when thrust into a strange environment like a show.
- Handsanitiser, for when you can't wash hands along the way.
- Chairs, blanket, etc
- Your farm sign for the pen.
- Waybill and/or Travel Permit from DPI (if necessary).
- Copy of all entry documents for that show, including copies of the show team pedigree papers.
- Entry passes for the show.
NIGHT BEFORE YOU LEAVE FOR SHOW
- Clean your show team and put on grass or concrete so that they don't pick up too much vegetable matter in their fleece.
- Feed well.
- Pack your car and float, so that when you are ready to leave you just need to halter and lead your animals onto the float and go.
TRAVELLING
- Halter and load alpacas. Do not leave halters on alpacas as they can get caught up on each other or parts of the float. Do not leave halter/leads in the float as they can get caught up in the alpacas legs.
- Stop every 2-3hrs for at least a 15min break for the alpacas to get up, stretch their legs in the float, put out feed and water for them too.
WHEN YOU ARRIVE AT THE SHOW
- Have your paperwork ready for inspection by DPI and Show Security Staff (entry passes, waybill/travel permit, etc).
- Locate your pen (will have your farm name displayed on it).
- Unload your equipment (bedding, matting, feed containers, feed) and set up pen.
- Unload your alpacas.
- Remove your vehicle/float as quickly as possible for others who need to unload behind you.
- Put feed and water out for your animals.
- Make the convenor aware of your arrival, so that inspection of your animals can be listed to be done.
- Approx 1hr after you arrive, halter and take your animals for a walk to stretch their legs. Do not take more than two animals at a time and make sure you do not leave one animal on its own in the pen as it may fret. Do not leave halters on alpacas as they can get caught in fences.
- Clean your pen (remove fecal matter), clean your alpacas fleece and sweep out pen.
- Study the show guide, be aware of the order in which your animals will be shown, make sure all the entry tags for animals are in your show kit which will be hanging on your pen when you arrive.
SHOW DAY
- Take your alpacas for a walk early to stretch their legs.
- Clean pen.
- Final clean alpacas fleece.
- Halter alpacas and be aware of your place on the show schedule.
- Attend pre-show meeting held by convenor to hear of changes in the program, how the show will be run, etc.
- Make sure that you are meet the dress code for the show ring and are wearing the alpacas correct entry number on your coat.
REMEMBER
>Have fun!
1 Apr 10
SHOW WINNERS: How to Select them
The following information is excerts from an article written by a very experience American Alpaca Breeder and judge - Mike Safley, but somewhat adapted to suit our Australian conditions.
After many years in the show ring both as an exhibitor and more recently as a judge, Mike Safely has some observations on what it takes to win. These are merely his opinions and you may or may not agree, but if they are helpful and you win a few more ribbons then his purpose is served.
SHOW PREPARATION
After judging several large shows, Mike Safley noticed that more and more breeders were "blocking" their Huacayas and "washing" their Suris. The Australian Alpaca Association show rules prohibit these practices and note that alpacas are presented in a clean (free of vegetable and fecal matter) paddock quality condition.
By blocking, Mike means giving alpacas a full body hair cut so that the animal almost becomes a fleece sculpture. This is a much different look than a cria that is shorn early so it will look good for the next show season.
By washing, Mike means just that. A number of suri breeders seem to think that it increases the luster in the fleece if the animal is washed. Others actually add oil or show prep to the fleece to make it shine. In doing this, you risk being asked to leave the show ring by the judge as these practices are strictly prohibited in Australia.
Mike says that based on his conversations with other judges and his own judging experience that excessive preparation such as blocking and washing do not work. In fact, it most often results in the animal being placed lower rather than higher. The problems for a judge when evaluating over-prepared animals are:
1. The animal is more difficult to assess for a number of reasons:
- short staple length
- an unnatural staple with a blunt tip
- the hiding or masking of medulation, and
- the fleece seems to lack density.
2. Washing removes natural luster and the greasy slick handle of a high quality suri fleece.
3. The phenotype is altered by the sculpture technique. When a blocked animal enters the ring, a red flag goes up. The judge knows the breeder has tried to alter the look and possibly hide defects and looks closer in an effort not to be deceived. Breeders will do better in the ring if they leave the fleece undisturbed and maybe clip a little around the head and neck only.
WINNING TRAITS
There are some traits that are common denominators among prize winning alpacas. They include:
1) size - larger alpacas tend to win;
2) bite - a bad bite often eliminates an alpaca from competition for first or second place;
3) in huacayas crimp wins;
4) in suris luster wins;
5) density often becomes a determining factor amongst similar alpacas;
6) fineness is good, but absolute superiority in fineness is rarely the determining factor in ribbon placement;
7) conformation rarely determines the winner because most alpacas that place have excellent conformation;
8) animals that lead well and do not pull against the halter do better than unruly alpacas that fight their handler making it difficult for the judge to see their true leg conformation;
9) presence is important as it catches the judge's eye, and;
10) grooming - animals that have not been brushed or beaten with a wand or particularly, in the case of suris, washed, do better.
Mike takes the above factors one at a time below and suggests how you might select for them or ensure the particular quality is in your alpacas. These suggestions are abbreviated. For a complete discussion of these ideas please see his book "Alpacas: Synthesis of a Miracle".
- 1. Size is highly heritable and most studs who sire winners are large, say 95-100cm at the withers and weigh 75-85kgs.
- 2. Bite, never ever breed to a stud with a bad bite and do not bother to show alpacas with an obviously bad bite.
- 3. Crimp is highly heritable in my experience. Breed your females to older males that still exhibit crimp. Check a male's progeny to see if they generally exhibit crimp.
- 4. Luster, only breed to males with knockout, bright luster. Check a stud's progeny to see if they exhibit luster. And I mean "bright".
- 5. Density is easy to select for. Simply measure the stud's fleece weight and check his progeny.
- 6. Fineness, check a stud's progeny for fineness. You must be careful here because fineness and density are often antagonistic traits. Winners are often 20 microns or less, but remain dense. This number is higher in older animals.
- 7. Conformation, dose your cria with vitamins ADE, particularly in the cloudy weather times or if you live in a climate with little sunlight. Mike has had few leg problems since he began this practice over 10 years ago.
- 8. Handling, do not wait until one week before a show to train your alpacas. Just because they lead does not mean that they are ready for a show. The animal should also stand calmly for inspection, and above all it should not kick or spit on the judge.
- 9. Presence, this is important, particularly with males. Mike recommends running your show prospects with females beginning at a young age, say 12 months and older. They can be pregnant females. It also helps to have them in a pasture next to a breeding male, the sights and sounds of their activity tend to jump start testosterone. The important thing is that they not run with older males that tend to intimidate and dominate the younger males. The largest male in the pasture tends to have the best presence.
- 10. Grooming, less is best, but clipping away a little medulation from the chest and shaping the head a bit can't hurt. Blocking an animal or extreme shearing or trimming of the fleece often raises a red flag in the mind of the judge. Do not wash a show animal.
The above ideas are simply Mike's opinions based on observation, success and occasional failure.
However this farm believes that the advice above is very sound and we subscribe to most of his recommendations.
1 Apr 10
CRIA WATCH: Impending Births
Notes to help those patiently waiting and watching for a cria to arrive..... and what to do when it FINALLY gets here!
RESEARCH
- Read ABC Antenatal, Birthing & Cria Care by: Carolyn Jinx & Dr Ewen McMillan (available on this website under "MarketPlace", "Equipment")
- Google cria births on internet and view videos.
- Ask breeders near you to call when a delivery is happening, so that you can go and watch it progress, and see how to perform an initial health check on the cria and dam, etc.
CRIA WATCH
- Crias are normally born between 335-355days following the mating. In Autumn they are often at the early end of the period and in Spring at the latter end.
- When your pregnant female is six weeks off 355 days, bring her into a maternity paddock with other females due around the same time, or with a buddy to keep her company if you have no others. Somewhere that you can see her readily as you come and go about your day to day business.
- Crias are normally born between 8am-2pm. Often if born outside those hours there can be a problem so be aware that you may need to call the vet or an experience local breeder to help, so have numbers handy!
Signs that the dam may be in labour include:
o Visiting the poo pile often, perhaps straining and nothing coming out.
o Bulging around the vulva/anus area (even balloon looking which can happen for up to 2wks before birth).
o Walking around with tail in the air and not near a poo pile.
o Rolling a lot which is getting the cria in the birth canal properly.
o Biting or itching at sides can be an indication they are in labour.
o Laying on the ground, groaning, getting up and down a lot (in and out of kush and laying on side).
o Not eating when you put out a morning / evening feed.
o Taking herself away from the others in the herd off on their own.
CRIATION Day of Birth
- The dam will normally give birth standing, but can do it in kush position too.
- You will probably see her looking like she is in a pooing position, then notice a foot or two or a nose poking out her vulva. At this stage it is best just to sit, watch and see what happens.
Normal progression of the birth:
- Nose and two feet come out, sack is broken and you may see small amount of fluid dripping and crias nostrils moving as it breathes air for the first time. If you only see a nose coming out dont panic, the feet will probably come in time. If only a head and neck keeps progressing with no legs call the vet, the legs are be in the wrong position and may need to be manipulated for the cria to be pulled out. If you see two feet and no head coming just wait and watch her contract, the head will probably come out with the next few contractions.... if not, call the vet as the head may be in the wrong position and the cria may need to be repositioned and pulled out. If the whole head comes out and the sack is still intact around the head you will need to quietly move over to her, get someone to hold her whilst you just pinch the sack to tear it open around the nostils of the cria so that it can breathe otherwise it can suffocate! However don't do this too early, as the cria can go back inside dam and then drown.
- Once the head, neck and legs are out, the dam will rest for 5mins as the cria hangs for the lungs to drain this is normal.
- She will start to push again to get the shoulders out, she can rest again for another 5mins whilst lungs continue to drain at this stage.
- Final stage, she will push the rest of the body out to hips and cria can hang for a further 5mins, then the rest of the body will quickly follow.
- This process normally takes 15-30minutes from the time you first see a nose or feet exiting the vulva, but can take up to two hours however none of mine have taken that long.
Now its cria care time:
- This is when you need to make sure you have a pen and pad to record everything from here on firstly the time cria was born, as this becomes importantly later.
- Stand back and watch the cria it should very quickly get up into kush within about 5-10mins at the most. This is the time you move in to do the following:
Check the umbilical cord is not bleeding, if it is use a clamp to stop flow of blood and call vet-I have never seen this happen. If not bleeding, spray with betadine/water mix liberally.
Check to see if it is a girl or boy just so you know!
Rub your finger in its mouth checking for teeth on the bottom jaw if no teeth it is a bit premmie and may need extra care. If teeth have erupted from skin then it is right on time.
Check cria has an anus opening this can be closed over and if so you need to take it to the vet immediately for the vet to surgically open it or the cria will die. This has never happened on my farm.
Check temperature with a rectal thermometer-should be 36.8-38.6degrees-make a note of the temperature in your note book. If at the lower end, I would move cria to a sunny spot to warm up and check temp in 1/2hr if still low, rub cria all over with a towel to warm up and put a jumper and/or coat on it if you feel necessary. If it is winter and it is not warming up quickly, you can put it in a tub of hot water, towel dry, then dry off with a hair dryer, jumper/coat and return to mum as quickly as possible.
Now bite a hole in 2 x Vitamin D3 capsules and squeeze into the crias mouth, then syringe 1ml of Cophos paste into mouth as well.
Weigh the cria: if 6+kg all should be okay, if under that this is a cria you may have to really watch to make sure all goes well.
Put cria back into Kush position, write down all your observations and treatments in your note book, walk away and leave mum and bub to bond and move on.
This process should take no more than 5mins.
Cria will start to get up:
- Cria should be up and standing within 30minutes after birth, but can take up to 2hrs.
- When cria gets up, it will start looking for milk from mum straight away and will generally be drinking within 30 more minutes.
- Dam will have waxy plugs on teats and cria will generally knock them off, then milk will start flowing, but you may have to do this if not going well. Crias will drink often every 1-3hrs at first, but only for about 2minutes at a time, but can get up to 250mls of milk in that short time.
- You need to watch and listen now to see that cria is getting milk when cria reappears from under mum and it has milk on its mouth.... its a good sign that all is well. If you hear sucking and the cria is under there for a minute or two in the one position.... its a good sign. If the crias tails rises in a circle when sucking, its a good sign. If the cria is just in the wrong spot, fussing around and not getting anything and starts to drop on the ground and look flat and within two hours from birth as not had milk then give 60ml warm water with 2 x teaspoons of glucose in a bottle with a flutter teat record this in your note book. If in another two hours you dont believe the cria has had milk, make a 60ml bottle of Impact (colostrum powdered milk) and give to cria-record in notebook. If another two hours elapses with no milk having been taken continue offering Impact milk 2 hourly by the directions on the packet for 12hours total then move onto Divetilac (double strength), Biolac, Woomaroo milk replacer make up by the directions on the pack. Some breeders choose to get camelid plasma from the vet to bottle feed, rather than the Impact or have the vet administer it intravenously and just bottle feed the milk replacer. Make sure when you make up milk that it is hot 38-40degrees, otherwise you might find the cria wont drink it. It is a good idea to have a kitchen thermometer in your kit for this purpose.
- Make sure you record all the times that the cria starts drinking or details of bottle feeding, how much, when, etc
- All being well cria will feed off mum and you wont have to worry about anything as 99% of the time it just all goes to plan. We have had to watch crias for 2-48hrs and assist with bottle feeding throughout this period, only to find cria eventually clicks and starts feeding from mum.
Placenta Delivery:
- Dam will normally deliver the placenta about 30mins 2hrs after the cria is born.
- The placenta will be intact, rubber like, no blood put in two rubbish bags and in the bin.
- If the placenta is not delivered within 2hrs call vet, as the dam will have to have Oxytocin injection to get the placenta out.
- When placenta is delivered give the dam a bowl of lucerne as a reward good for getting milk supply going.
- Check dams vulva if torn or swollen, spray with betadine if bad tear, call vet to stitch.
- Check dams temperature should be 38.5-38.9, if higher call vet as she may need antibiotics to bring under control.
- Record the time of the placenta delivery.
Bonding time:
- Leave the dam and cria to bond now. Check every now and then that all is well cria is lively, drinking, etc.... if not commence bottle feeding as dehydration will kill a cria very quickly.
- We normally move dam/cria into a paddock on own to bond for the day, after the placenta is delivered.
End of the day of birth:
- Dam: we give 1ml Selenium injectable, 1ml ADE injectable if light coloured or 2ml if dark coloured, 5ml Cophos injectable and only if not given in last trimester: 1ml 5-in-1.
- Cria: weigh can loose up to 1kg in first 2days following birth, but then should gain back and put on up to 1kg per week for first 4wks.
- You may need to coat cria on 1st few nights just see what the low temperature is supposed to be overnight and judge it yourself.
- Record all the above information in your note book and transfer to dam/cria farm files.
1 Apr 10
FLEECE COLOUR: Colour Coding Alpacas
Determining an alpacas colour at birth can be tricky - it is actually better to wait until it is around 1-2mths old to make the decision.
When born, the tips of the alpaca can be discoloured by the embryonic fluid it has been sitting in for past 11.5mths. When the sun hits these tips, it can also bleach slightly - giving a black alpaca brown tips for example.
When the alpaca has approx 1-2mths growth, open the fleece up and put the colour chart (displayed) next to the skin and determine what the colour is. At Pfeiffer Park Alpacas we do not register our animals until they are around 4-5mths old, then we are more certain of the colouring.
Does an alpaca change colour over the years? Not really, they can darken or lighten slightly and they do go grey just like us with age-for them it is around 10yrs onward when they start to go grey/white, but other than aging they really always remain pretty much the colour they were born.
A guide to colour coding of alpacas:
The fleece colour code has been supplied to Australian Alpaca Association registered breeders to assist in grouping registered alpacas into the correct fleece colour type.
- Open the fleece on your animal and place the chart next to the fleece. Do not place colour chart next to the outside tips as they are sun-bleached and do not represent the true colour of the fleece.
- The natural range of alpaca colours is more extensive than the individual colours on the chart, so you must match the animal to the nearest like colour.
- Alpacas which are the one colour have the prefix S for solid colour preceding the described colour.
- Alpacas that are predominantly one colour are to be registered as that colour but will not have the prefix S
- Grey alpacas are to be coded in the nearest grey category with no prejudice against dark or light markings. The grey colour is complex and no prefix S will be attached to this class.
- Fancy coloured animals will be described by taking the largest colour mass first and the lesser colour or colours next in order of total body colour. For example: black/white, medium brown/white, white/medium brown/black.
A guide to assessing colour from the Australian Alpaca Association Showing Rules Manual:
- WHITE: constitutes a pristine bright white fleece
- LIGHT FAWN: alpacas with cream or "off white" fleeces, or have light fawn on the neck or backline. These should be entered into the light fawn class.
- ROAN: constitutes a fawn, brown or black alpaca with white fibres throughout the fleece.
25 Mar 10
SEASON: Cyclone Season - Be Prepared
The period between October and March in Central Queensland is a time when we can encounter cyclonic conditions.
Here are some tips to help you and your alpacas through these months.
WARNINGS:
- When a cyclone is declared in the Region, keep an eye on the Queensland Bureau of Meteorology website for updates at: www. bom. gov. au/weather/qld/
- Keep your TV or Radio tuned to your local station as warnings will appear hourly with an alarm sound.
PREPAREDNESS:
- Clean up your property and make sure there are no items on the ground that can turn into missiles in strong winds. This includes pot plants, decorative logs in garden beds, outdoor furniture, spare roof sheeting, star pickets, shovels, etc.
- Nail boards over large window expanses.
- Have a medical kit ready for use on your alpacas that includes items from "General Care Kit", "General Care Products" and "Cria Kits" under "Market Place, Equipment" tabs above.
- Make a plan with your vet concerning the care of your animals following such weather conditions, knowing that it is unlikely you will have communications after the winds have passed for some time. Plans should include vet approval to treat, administer antibiotics or euthanise alpacas if necessary when communication lines are down due to the weather.
- Make sure your animals insurance is up to date and advise your broker of the current weather situation, making plans with your insurance company concerning animals that may need to be euthanised following serious injury, when and if a vet cannot come to do the work for you.
- Make sure you have a safe location for the humans staying to care for animals and property, along with a first aid kit, torch and spare batteries, plenty of drinking water, insect spray, enough non-perishable food for 3 days and a battery operated radio to listen to warnings and news.
SAFE LOCATIONS FOR ALPACAS:
- Move alpacas to paddocks which provide protection from the winds through the landscape.
- If shedding alpacas, ensure that they have adequate light, ventilation, feed and water.
FOLLOWING THE WINDS:
- Remember when in a cyclone, the eye will give a period of time where it seems the cyclone has past.... be aware that it still has to pass through the other side - do not be fooled into checking or move into repair mode until the second wave of wind has past.
- Check all alpacas, assisting those with injuries or suffering from stress.
- Contact vet, if possible, for assistance in person or over the phone.
- If it is necessary to euthanise any alpacas and a vet is not available, make sure you take a photo of the alpaca before hand for insurance purposes.
- Feed out lucerne hay as it is quick, easy and nutritious and continue this for a time. This is a feed they like and will help to calm them after the stress they have been through.
- Feed chaff mix (white and green chaff, bran, vitamin/minerals, water to mix) to all alpacas to make sure that they are all eating - standing back to watch and make sure. If you have alpacas not eating, you will need to check them over more thoroughly. Add Vitamin B Complex powder to chaff mix - this helps to calm them; Vitamin C powder to help counteract any illness through cuts and bacteria in the environment; DCP to help strengthen them; Kelp to restore zinc levels and assist with skin irritations from mosquitos, rain scald, cuts/abrasions and restore immune system; and Mineral Powder to make sure their levels are restored after such a stressful situation.
- Water. Clean all waterers with bleach and add electrolytes to help restore vitamin/mineral/amino acids to system. This also helps to restore calm.
- If you have an alpaca clearly suffering from stress, give 5ml Vitamin B1 injectable, 3ml Vitamin B Complex injectable and a drench with electrolytes for an adult and half that amount for a tui/cria. This can bring an alpaca back to normal within a couple of hours.
USEFUL CONTACTS IN ROCKHAMPTON/YEPPOON AREA:
- ACACIA VET CLINIC: 4939 5988, Emergeny Number: 0407 577 098
- DPI: 4936 0211
- SES: 132 500
19 Mar 10
SEASON - Autumn Tips
Autumn in Central Queensland is a really nice time of year, the rains of summer have generally abated.... leaving our pastures green and lush as we head toward milder temperatures.
Here are some tips that you can use to help your alpacas coast through the autumn months.
SHEARING: Spring time is best. If you have animals that need to be shorn, do it now and no later than end of March. We made the mistake last year of shearing 1/2 dozen alpacas end of March and then we got an unexpected cold snap - which left our animals feeling cold and miserable for a while whilst they tried hard to pump out some fleece to keep them warm. Fortunately they were all big healthy adults that could cope with a little cold and not compromise their immune systems with the sudden change.
DRINKING WATER: Maintain fresh and clean drinking water for your animals, cleaning waterers regularly with a little bleach to keep bacteria at bay.
SHELTER: Make sure alpacas have places to get out of the sun if they wish to and shelter from any rain and cooler breezes - trees are adequate, shade shelter or open shed.
HOSE / WATERING: It is best not to wet your alpacas at this time of year, even on a hot day.... as the night approaches the temperatures are getting lower and if the alpaca is not dry they can suffer from the cold over night, weakening their immune system, making them vulnerable to illness.
WORMS: Keep dung piles clean and weed eat tall grasses around them to keep the Alpacas from eating near them. Remove dung regularly - every 4-5days to reduce worm burden. A very good time to drench alpacas, as worms can and do kill and rapidly. Many breeders drench 3-4 times per year: Spring, Summer, Autumn and sometimes Winter.
PREGNANT FEMALES: This is often the busy season for alpaca breeders in Queensland with the first births of the year starting in Autumn, followed by matings/spitoffs, etc. A good time for crias to be delivered when the weather is milder, gives them time to grow some fleece and be prepared for the colder winter months. If you are in this situation, it is time to bring your heavily pregnant girls into maternity paddocks to have them close enough to monitor births.
PASTURES: This time of year we have nice green, lush pastures following he summer rains. However, the grass can get out of hand with alpacas not being able to consume at the rate it grows! It is a good idea to slash regularly to keep the grass low - alpacas like it best that way and it also helps with keeping eyes free of grass seed injuries. If you are in a spear grass country like us, don't fret it is really good nutrition for the alpacas - but needs to be managed so not to cause problems. The season is approaching where spear grass will start to spear - make sure you slash before it spears, so the needles hit the ground and do not become a problem in the alpacas fleece. Slashing has a good affect on the paddocks too - leaving grass litter on the ground creates a mulch keeping the moisture in and helps to prevent weed growth.
BI-ANNUAL SHOTS:
March/April is the time of year that we look to our biannual care regime: drenching, vaccine, vitamin D, clipping toenails and general health checks. We will be in touch with all our clients in the coming months to assist you with these things if you haven't done already.
2 Mar 10
HALTERS: A Correctly Fitted Alpaca Halter is Very Important!
DIAGRAM - Correctly Fitted Halter
At Pfeiffer Park Alpacas we have learned halter training with assistance from Marty McGee "Alpaca Training & Handling DVD" and also through trial and error- applying methods that suit the individual alpaca's personality and needs for training!
We believe it is easier to handle a trained alpaca - as the alpaca in this situation is calmer and understands what is required of it, making handling a much more pleasant task for both the animal and handler - whether it is just to go for a walk; be prepared for going to show; going to a mating or having a vet visit. As such we train all alpacas born on our farm and try to assist clients with on farm lessons for untrained alpacas; we make Marty McGee's training DVD available for purchase or lending; provide training opportunities with Marty McGee's trained TTeam Staff in Queensland annually and also offer to train your alpacas for you - on your farm or yours.
The most common error in handling alpacas is to misunderstand how to halter them correctly due to lack of knowledge concerning the make up of the facial structure and thus to end up with a badly fitted halter. This understandably makes the alpaca uncomfortable and nervous and renders it difficult to manage.
At Pfeiffer Park Alpacas we sell halters especially designed for alpacas and show you how to correctly fit them, along with a range of other alpaca specific products.... go to "Market Place" tab and equipment for more information.
HALTER FITTING INSTRUCTIONS
- Fit halter on the alpaca so that the nosepiece allows for chewing, yet cannot slide down onto the soft cartilage of the nose and cut off breathing.
- Crown piece should be snug, holding the noseband in place.
- Improperly fitted halters can be life-threatening as, unlike other animals, camelids must breathe through their noses.
1 Mar 10